Erin McElvaney

    Drove to NY. Left at 8:45 pm from Baltimore. Arrived in NY around 1 am. Got sufficiently lost, asked for directions several places, ended up in South Brooklyn, and finally purchased an NY street map. Made it to the hotel at around 2:30 am. The Econo-Lodge is not exactly in a good area, to say the least. South Ozone Park = :(. We were told at the desk--there is no extended free parking. The new girl misinformed us. Used our own pillowcases and got a short night of poor sleep. No breakfast.

     Too many hall noises to sleep well. Checked out @ 11 am. Argued with the hotel manager @ Econolodge that we needed either free parking or a refund. He finally conceded to free parking. Hopefully Nate's car will survive 14 days in the ghettos of NYC.

     Caught a $12 cab to the nearby airport. Waited for 2 hrs in Au Bon Pain and playing Rummy (I kicked his ass) until Iberia opened its windows. Our flight got overbooked and we were switched to American Airlines, a direct flight (saving 6 hrs) instead of one with 2 stops. The A/C on our AA flight broke and we sweated for a while before disembarking while they fixed it. We left JFK 1:30 late, at 7:45 pm Eastern, and arrived after a long uneventful flight, in Paris at 8:30 am.

     PS at the airport JFK, we had a couple delicious red beers and struck up a lot of great convos w/ other travelers. Several just returned from Europe. We got some tips for travel from them :). A great start!

Photo Gallery for Day 1- Paris.

     In Paris, we had some adventures in the airport--I used French already to purchase our first phone cards. It's harder to understand/be understood than I expected! After a lot of confusion at the pay phones, I finally called Gen (no answer) and many hostels. Most were booked. Le Village let us stay for 2 nights so we rushed over..."rushed." We had more adventures @ Ch. de Gaulle! A few ppl tried to tell us where to find the train. Most were wrong. We finally located the RER & the Billeterie (auto ticket vendor) was en panne (broke). We waited in a real long line to buy our 7є 50 ticket to Paris. We got off @ Gare du Nord, took a metro 1 stop, and walked to the hostel. Finally! 12 pm.

     Checked in, left our bags, and I changed$200 for 150є @ the desk. .75 x-rate iffy. We found a girl @ the hostel terrace (room lockout is 11 am -- 4pm) who told us where to get cheap water & food & we did that.

Lunch: 2є50 for a demi baguette w/ muenster cheese, water, and 2 nectarines. We ate on the terrace looking out up to the Sacre-Coeur.

Then we headed up the hill to the Basillica. Beautiful! The paintings on the altar ceilings were incredible. We sat at the pews for a moment. No pics allowed inside.

     We continued to wander the streets of Montmartre. There were many street artists and it was quite touristy. We stopped in a couple galleries, and also browsed the gift shops of the Musee de Montmartre (in the oldest house in Montmartre) and the gift shop of the Salvador Dali museum. I bought a postcard there for Matt, and one of the Sacre Coeur for Mme King (HS French teacher). Everything is expensive it seems--most of all, drinks. We stopped at an outdoor cafe/crepes place for a bit. I had a lemon and sugar crepe, 3є50.

     When we made it back to le Village Hostel, our room was ready. We checked in & are sharing a room in a 6-bed (spacious, though) dorm. Alex & David are our first roommates. Ironically both are American, and David is from Baltimore! Even crazier, he knows people in Monkton and Hereford! Freaking small world! I wasn't able to contact Gen yet but I left a msg. We sweated all day long in cramped, hot whatever conditions. Hopefully I can sleep tonight.

     We got showered and dressed here, and all is well and clean. Our room has its own bathroom & shower. Not bad for 45є for 2 nights. The '15-second shower' that I was afraid of is really just the kind that you push a handle in, and it gradually falls out until the water stops. However, you can hold it in or just keep pressing it. So it's annoying but ok.

     No problems yet w/ pickpockets, thankfully! Knock on wood.

After showers, we got "dinner." -- More bread & cheese, & a delicious coffee at a cafe outdoors looking up at the Sacre-Coeur (3є50). We got a bottle of red wine for 1.50є, then chatted with a New Zealand & a Canadian girl about their travels @ our hostel. They both traveled mostly alone, and for a month or more! Wow. We drank wine on the steps at the Sacre-Coeur along with a million others, watching the sun set on the city. It was beautiful. You can see the whole city from there! (The Sacre-Coeur is located at the highest point of the city of Paris so it has a great view, and apparently it is the popular thing to do to drink and sit up there at night). I went down to find a bathroom and I ended up ordering a draft "1664" at a bar that played French jazz. It was really neat, and the waitress spoke only French to me :)

     Later, we tried to find a jazz bar w/ 2 guys (roommates). Wasted our metro money and I killed my feet running through the city in heels. Long walk by Notre Dame & the Seine. Ouch! Shoes killed. I had to pop my first blisters on my 2^nd day in Europe. :) Nice!

Photo Gallery for Day 2 - Paris

     Today we did a 'walking tour' by la Seine from Nate's guidebook. It was a long day! We reserved one more night at le Village hostel, in a triple (Sat night) and hit the metro downtown at 11 am.

     We walked along Ile St.-Louis, which is the island in la Seine. There we looked in shops, strolling the small town. I saw this sugar bowl I wanted but it was very expensive. We stopped so I could get a cola bc I wasn't feeling well after all that wine last night. We sat in a bar by the door and I had a coke in a glass bottle for 3є50 and we got 2 scoops of fraise ice cream (strawberry). MMM! They had a photo of Bill Clinton on the wall, from one time he was there at that bar. I used the public toilet in the bar--my first squatter!

     Then we cris-crossed the island and saw Notre Dame--heavilly trafficked yet very impressive-stained glass & architectural masterpiece!

Thru the flower markets-how quaint! Where we passed Sainte Chappelle. We grabbed a sandwich: 4є20 for tomate & chevre panini (goat cheese)! Not bad, really. Coulda used more tomato though. Ate by the Seine. Ah, Paris! Strolled to Pont Neuf at the point (Place Dauphine?) to see stoned, smoking drinking 15-yr-olds playing instruments by the water. Drole! Beautiful.

     Went to the Louvre for a long while. Lots of scuplture & paintings and Napoleon's apartment things. They tried to evacuate us but no one listened. So many stairs, feet in pain! Beautiful but huge. 8.50є entrance. Walked by fountains & gardens when leaving. Beautiful day turned blustery. Headed down Champs-Elysees towards Arc de Triomphe, saw the Obelisque where Marie-Antoinette and others were publicly executed, but turned off to catch the metro back. Back @ 6 or 6:30 for a shower and then off to get food.

     Wanted tomatoes and mozzarella sandwiches but went to two grocery stores--all out! Got to use French to ask girls for help finding the cheese or something similar. No luck. Bought Brie, bread, 2 nectarines, 5 tomatoes, bottle wine: about 6.50є if that. Not bad. Didn't drink though. Nectarines = :). Headed out to Eiffel Tower @ dusk. Mad rush time. It was so beautiful! Lights on, then flashing blue ones! Cool. Waited in line forever: 7.50є for 2^nd floor (3 floors total). Tope floor closed :(. Very nice view. Took many pics. Could see Notre Dame, Seine, Sacre-Coeur, etc. from there. Headed back @ midnight.

**How often do they sparkle the Eiffel?**

     Stopped at a local bar for a pint of beer-Belgian-mmm-'Affligem'- and chocolate mousee :):). Total bill 2 beers & bousse: 21є. MMM. Came back & hopped in bed. Bon nuit! Good night's sleep approx 7:30 hrs.

Photo Gallery for Day 3- Paris

Videos:

   1. Live Jazz music at Jardin de Luxembourg

      J'ai oublie! Here are a few random things I've noticed: 1. The sidewalks are annoyingly narrow on the streets of Montmartre. 2) Also, there is a mysterious flow of water in 'gutters' along the streets in many places. Genevieve doesn't know why. I thought maybe street sweepers could brush dirt into them, so it gets carried out to the Seine. 3) Tati is a cheap crap store- everywhere and very crappy! 4) This annoying ad for mascara EVERYWHERE! 'Alert! My D-cup eyelashes are going to make waves!' -- Thanks Gen for explaining! 5) They hate you not having proper change! I've been scowled at plenty for handing over bills.

      Au jour d'hui:

      Got up and had breakfast. Gen & Elena arrived! Yay! Chatted for a bit, dressed, and Nate's electrical outlet transformer is frying somehow :( il ne marche plus. So I didn't get to fix my hair. Oh well. We tried to exchange money-Nate got ripped off: 50є for $100. :( I got money at an atm not bad. Us 4 took the metro to Gare du Nord so we could reserve our couchettes/train passes to Nice. We were so confused until Gen found out why all ticket counters were closed--flash strike! Annoyed, we headed down to the catacombs!

      They are where all of some 6 million skeletons were moved to when hundreds of yrs ago, the cemeteries were a health hazard etc. The bones were stacked high with femurs and skulls to make patterns. It was dark, cold, creepy & cool. Gen helped translate the plaques and sayings everywhere. Many long catacombs-interesting! And only 2.50є for students!

      Then, we walked far to Gare de Montparnasse, wher ewe finally reserved our train tickets. It was useful to know French bc the ticket lady said she only spoke English un peu. I successfully made our reservations. 17.50є each for our couchettes. 11 hrs on the train though! We arrive in Nice at 8:15 am.

I also used a public pay bathroom- enter .40є and use, close the door and it self cleans/flushes/disinfects! We got paninis at the gare (I had chicken curry-3.90є) and ate on the ride to jardin Luxembourg. The gardens were awesome.

      We saw a live jazz band playing, tennis, chess, basketball, boccie ball, and a huge playground--kids everwhere! No regard for safety-parents don't care! Falling face first off playground equipment, etc! I tried to take a video but missed all the good falls. We had many good laughs. It seems in France, tehre is a general and blatant disregard for rules and regulations. Safety isn't as much a deal--no liability issues. Kids climbing and playing on dangerous playground things, no protection of amazing artwork at the Louvre, ppl drinking in the lobby of our hostel when the sign clearly says 'interdit,' and public drinking! Crazy! They trust ppl more here I guess or maybe all are more ignorant.

      I'm drinking wine right now. (Speaking of breaking rules--this is apparently not allowed in the hostel) It was generally a beautiful day. At the jardin, we saw the octagonal fountain, where you can rent bateaux to push around the water w/ a stick. It was cute to watch. I remembered this (as did Gen) from Robert & Mireille movies from Middle or High School French classes. Kinda windy so the boats sailed! We saw an interesting art gallery in the park's building, too, and there was modern art displayed all throughout the huge park.

      We stopped to eat fruit and listen to the jazz. So awesome.

      We came back to our new room to check in and Nate drew the view from the window and we've said on such occasions: it's like something from a dream. It really is.

      I wrote a bit, showered, and we waited for Elana to get back from Pompidou. At 9, after checking my email, Nate, Gen, Elana, their roommate Tanna, and I went to get dinner down by les Marais near a jazz club we planned to stop in. We ate at a Thai place bc we were sick of walking. I had shrimp ravioli for 'entree', pork piquante for 'plat', and cafe for dessert. We did the French thing and ordered the 'menu', which means off a fixed-price choice menu w/ several courses. We had a lot of fun @ dinner laughing about things in culture, etc. Gen taught us French etiquette: never switch fork and knife, and always keep both hands on the table. I didn't realize that us Americans always let an idle hand rest in our lap! The French say--'what are you doing down there?' ha! We spent the whole dinner calling each other out--'oop! There goes your hand!!' & talking about accents.

**I love all the places w/ dogs! In stores & cafes alike! And they don't ever have leashes on!**

      We didn't make it to the jazz bar! We finished dinner @ 12 midnight, metro-ed it back to Pigalle (1 stop before ours). There we explored the red light district and took pictures of the 'sexodrome' and Moulin Rouge.

**What is a popper? Sold @ a sex store**

That was fun times :).

**Gen doesn't understand (neither did we, which is why we asked her):

1)Why there are rivers of water running the gutters of Parisian streets?

2)Why there are rugs in the street gutters sometimes

3)Why are there cats painted on the chimneys?!**

Photo Gallery for Day 4 - Paris and Train to Nice

Videos:
   1. Fountains outside of Centre Pompidou
   2. Live music outside at Jardin de Luxembourg
   3. Panoramic of the Arc de Triomphe

     Today, we woke up @ 8:30 am. Best night's sleep yet! We were in a triple this night w/ a Japanese girl who didn't speak any English. She went to bed very early. No fun : /. However we had a nice view in the morning!

     We packed, had breakfast, and as Elana had left early already, Gen, Nate and I headed out to the Arc de Triomphe. We saw it up close and I tried to get a handle on what it was--Napoleon had it built to celebrate his taking over France/Paris. Since then, it's also become a memorial to all unknown soldiers of all French-Involved wars. We saw the 'Tomb of the unknown soldier' which is the memorial right under it.

     Then we walked a little down the Champs-Elysees towards la Obelisque which looks like the Washington Monument and is at 'la Place de la Concorde' which is where they used to do public executions: beheading Marie Antoinette, for example. We stopped for 'pain au chocolat' which was delicious. 2 chocolate bars wrapped in a croissant!

     Then we walked and browsed a bit, before getting a metro to Centre Pompidou. There, Nate & I toured the exhibits of Jean Miro, and the gallery generale while Gen wandered the streets of les Marais. The modern art was cool--the building was built 'inside out' and there were neat fountains outside it.

     Then we met up and walked and shopped. Gen haggled at 2 stores to get a good price on some souvenirs. Good job! :)

     We stopped for lunch @ a cafe. I had a crazy good 'salade.' Salades aren't like our salads. They encompass diff things. This one was 'salade' (lettuce), French ham, some kind of cheese, awesome dressing, tomatoes, walnuts, and 4 pieces of toast w/ goat cheese. Good! I decided goat cheese is too strong for me.

     After lunch (11є), we walked and browsed and wandered slowly towards les jardin Luxembourg to see if there was another jazz concert. We stopped @ Notre Dame, because Gen said there's a circle, 'point zero' or something, on the ground in front of the cathedrale, from which they measure the city. If you step on it, it's said that one day you will return. Gen stood on it back in high school. We found it, stood on it, and took pictures to 'seal the deal.'

It's sad to be leaving Paris :(.

     Then we made it to the gardens. They had like a full band and opera singer today! We sat in the grass till we got yelled at (no one allowed don grass in Paris in general--only for decoration). Then we sat and watched and listened a bit more, took one more walk around the fountain, and metro'ed back to the hostel.

     Gen left :( and we grabbed some super oily pizza down the street--starting to get sick of cheese! And bread! We packed up and got to the train station where I had another pain au chocolat :). Our train came and we boarded w/o problem.

     But! Apparently there was a mistake. Nate, me and one other guy were double booked in our beds w/ a swimming and diving team of kids. After about an hr, the 'Controlleur' moved us to diff rooms. We were having a good time w/ rummy but we were interrupted. Our new room was already asleep, packed, we had ground beds and it stunk ew! I hate B.O. :(. So Nate & I dropped our stuff off and found the car w/ a place to put bikes.

     I'm sitting in the (empty) bike area right now. Kinda sucks, sitting on the floor and all but oh well. Not fun on this train like Gen said she had fun:(. It's an adventure, though. We arrive in Nice at 8:15 am tomorrow. Good night, I suppose!

**The French just don't smile much at strangers. Makes me awkward @ eye contact and in public situations sometimes**

Photo Gallery for Day 5 - Nice

     I slept well on the train until 7 am when I started getting paranoid about getting our stuff stolen but all my valuables were on my money belt & I was fully clothed in bed.

     At 7:30 I got up and found out the train was almost 2 hr late. Had a coke, used the toilet and watched the beautiful countryside go by--Spanish tile and farm towns with tons of vineyards. Back to bed for an hr and back up at 9:30 just in time to arrive in Nice. Almost missed it!

It was raining on arrival :(. We walked to the tourist place @ the gar and got directions to the hotel, then waited at the gare to make reservations for our next night train. Success. Took the city bus too far and had to walk very far back to get to our hotel, in the almost-rain, along Promenade des Anglais and the water. Wow. Beautiful. Checked in at 11:20 am. Nice guy at the hotel.

           Directly behind most pimp-ass hotel here--hotel Negresco. Sooo close to the water and great location. Showered. Ahh..

     Went for lunch in rain. Had a chicken sandwich and half bottle of table wine for a total of 12є for both of us. We like the owners--man and woman very nice, old couple, took time from work and made themselves dinner and enjoyed it at the table. So cute. I could totally do this at retirement. C'est la bonne vie.

**The French love their food and so do I**

     Went shopping and rain stopped. Cicadas are the local emblem! Window shopped more--sooo expensive. Bought a chocolate/flatbread snack mmm.

**The French don't seem to like giving recommendations. They seem to say--how should I know what you'd like?' Or 'they're all too different.' Or they just give me descriptions of each. Very unbiased.**

     I had a fun convo w/ the woman at the cicada (la cigalle) store--she told me about the emblem thing & I told her that aux Etats-Unis, we had many right now, and I ate one. She asked, was it good? I said no, but covered in chocolate...oui!

**French always say 'bonjour' and 'au revoir' when anyone enters a store or leaves. It's so friendly feeling. I like it**

     Nate and I went to a bar for happy hr. We went to Thor's--an Australian bar and had a pint for 4.50є of Kilkenny-red beer. I like the pint style :). The bar was kinda boring though. We went to another, Wayne's, just before happy hr ended and go another pint for 3є. Then @ Waynes--quesadilla w/ guacamole. Bored some, not finding English ppl or friends. Finally Australian guy motions us to this table. We chill w/ more ppl--everyone watching soccer game: Sweeden (favored)vs Bulgaria. Sweeden (5-0). Australian guy was funny. I spoke w/ an LA rich girl in a group at the table next to us. They were playing a raunchy game of never have I ever. Funny :). Went home early. Tried to make drunk international phone call but neither of us had our phone cards on us. D'oh.

**French happy hrs go till 9 or 10 even!**

     Watched an awesome French tv show today--kinda like a big brother show w/ teens and they hook up more often. Awesome. Loved this dancing guy...

Bed @1:30am.

**France has small toilet rooms--they don't waste their time shitting around like us Americans, I guess?**

Photo Gallery for Day 6 - Nice

Videos:
   1. Dinner and Accordian Player in Nice
   2. The Beach at Nice

 ** No one chews gum in France**

     Slept ok, morning sucked. Bad headache. Loud street noise. Slept in til 10. Got showers and brunch at Pomm's. Had a ham, cheese and tomato omelette. Very good. Got suits on, went to beach for 4 hr or so. Very nice. Slept some, swam some. Water very nice but rocks hurt the feet. Beautiful weather! Couldn't have asked for a better day :). Some topless women--more older women.

     Got showered, checked email on internet --bad French keyboard! Hard to type. Shopped again--bought two rings as experiments. 1 looked like a cicada and the other a black and white ring of plastic.

**Only change your money @ American express. All other places seem sketchy/have poor rates**

**Apparently, mp3's and mp3 players aren't as big in France (all of Europe?) They aren't as on the ball w/ the Internet, etc I guess.**

     We had a good walk wandering through Vieux Nice and such. Shopped for dinner at an Italian restaurant in a quarter. We had the menu--I had beignets of zucchini and squash and then chicken parm w/ amazing spaghetti.

Some guys played accordion and guitar while we ate. Awesome. We split a bottle of red and had chocolate cake for dessert--36є tot for both-pas mal!

           Then wandered back, later went out, found a bottle of wine and sat on the beach, drinking and throwing stones into the water. Beautiful weather. I hit the white thing w/ a stone ! Also knocked over the wine onto the hotel blanket and later tried to wash it out in the shower :(.

     Read magazines and watched tv. Went to bed. Goodnight!

Photo Gallery for Day 7 - Nice and Train to Pau

 **Hardcore French army guards spotted several times bearing huge guns and sporting funky floppy berets!**

     Today, we woke up and showered and packed to check out. I slept well, but not long. I gave our pear juice to the hotel owner guy and he seemed to appreciate it.

**The French seem to be somewhat less wasteful than us Americans--what with the 15 second showers, the 20 second timed hallway lights, cleaning their plates always (with bread), etc.**

     The hotel guy is so awesome. We like him and his girl. That's another thing to consider: retire and own a hotel or a restaurant in Nice? We left our bags, paid, and peaced out. Walked real far...

     Found the museum of contemporary art after looking for a while. It was fun. I liked Chagall's toys and Ben's room of art. Then we found our way to the chateau. Don't remember the name. Long beautiful hike up the hill w/ many teasing views of the city. At the top--sooo incredible. I can't believe what I'm seeing is real. Am I really here? Shouldn't I have to pay for something so amazing as this day? No--it's free. Huge park and playground, trails, many overlooks--west Nice and the Pomenade des Anglais (where we stayed), the Mediteranee, and East Nice w/ the port and the point--boats and nature. We took tons of pictures and videos. Down the road a little was the cemetary--1 for Jewish and 1 for Christians. Both beautiful esp the Chirstian one. Couldn't take pics but boy did they have fancy graves--and a wonderful view!

     At the top of this hill, there was a small shop and a cafe. Why not eat at the most beautiful location in Nice? We ordered 2 syrup a l'eau (water with flavored syrup). I had grenadine and Nate had peach. We shared a panini--tomato, basil, mozzarella, and jambon blanc (type of ham). Sooo good. At the top of the hill, there was a beautiful waterfall (man-made). The castle ruins were neat, though.

**The French love ham. I hear Spain is worse, though**

     We went back to our side of town, tired from walking yet feeling so blessed. How could we not?

     Changed, bought a beach mat for 2.50є. Went to la plage at around 4 or so, chilled, and I passed in and out of sleep for an hr or two. Dipped in the Med. For a sec. Ouch! Stones! Changed and went to eat our last Nice meal.

**I love how the French chill and have coffee or drinks and people-watch so much. It's so relaxing!**

     Sat @ a cafe nearby, people-watching. Had a pint of Affligem beer! Mmm, 5.80є, sat for an hr. Tried to order the menu--plat du jour was rabbit provincale, but they were out of lapin so they did steak instead--with fries and a little salad and bread. At 8:15 (2 hr later!!) we went to the hotel, changed, and left for the gare (train station). Arrived @ 8:30 or 9, made a call home, and boarded the train.

**I'm going to miss the cafes :(**

     Almost had our own car--one other guy (so far) bleh. He went to bed, we went exploring (10 pm). I stopped in a place w/ justone guy playing guitar and he let us sit and chill w/ him for a bit. He was French--lived in Paris and others but now in Nice. Friend from Cannes and he are going on holiday to Bayonnes, after Nice, on the West side of France. He played guitar and chatted some in French and English for a bit. His friend wouldn't speak English, but it was fun, they sang and stuff. I got them to give me a list of some French musicians or groups. They didn't like Gen's pop star list. Called one group 'spice girls.' Good songs they played though.

     Controller said we had to leave bc there were more ppl boarding soon so we relocated to the bike holding area again. Controller passed us a few times and then offered us seats to chill in! How nice! I thought he was mad at us. He unlocked our way into the seats and here we chill, listening to Ipod, Nate drawing sleepy celly & being weird. Reclining in pimp chairs here. I'm out. Peace!

     Tried to get back to our couchette but the doors were locked! Knocked and waited till the controller guy, confused, let us back into our car. Goodnight :).

Photo Gallery for Day 8 - Pau

Videos:
   1. Roxanne sending a message to relatives
   2. Wine in front of the Castle in Pau

 **There are a lot of pizza places in France**

     I awoke on the train @ 7:30 am, and we got off in Pau. It was a small train station. We went to make our reservations for the night train to Barcelona and found we were in for a big surprise. There were none. No day trains, either, until Saturday, which was too late.

     So why not, on the fly, change to Seville? We heard good things from others about Seville. So we booked: 2 transfers Pau -> Irun -> Madrid -> Seville. Leave at 6:30 pm Friday and get in at 11 am Sat morning. Must be fate that we knew how to handle this, based on the recommendations of the people we met in the airport in NYC.

     Booking cost 26є per person. Sucks.

     Met Nate's aunt Anita and her bf Fred. Very nice, first bises (cheek kisses) yet!

     Got a ride to their Apartment, where we met their dog, Boo Boo. Fred speaks little English but Anita is fluent. We had breakfast--a croissant and coffee. mm--but so bland. Chatted some, I took a shower, changed. Their shower was odd--you had to sit down in it and spray yourself w/ the shower head. Not bad, though. Such a cool Bohemian/artsy apartment. Anita does art--paintings and sculptures, and they both do music. At 12 we walked to pick up Roxanne (10 yr old daughter) from school. She's adorable and speaks very well in English. I was impressed.

     We had an awesome and huge lunch home-cooked by Anita. Some sort of cream of mushroom in croissant-like bread bowls, and for appetizer: tomato, egg, and cheese salad mmm. Then we had cheese with bread. Great, huge, filling lunch. Naturally followed by coffee.

     After lunch, Anita and Fred showed us a map of Pau and gave us directions to the Promenade des Pyrenees.

     We left on our own to walk a bit. We went the wrong way, first, then eventually ended up where we wanted to be--Vieux Pau and the promenade. It was really hot.

**Europeans may seem healthy because they are not as overweight, but they certainly smoke like no tomorrow. It's getting old.**

     The view of the Pyrenees was nice but hazy due to the heat. I stopped to try a magnum bar. Mmm! Double chocolate caramel. Gen was right, they are good!

     We walked and sat often, came to a large park where tons of younger people (students) sat and chilled on the grass. We eventually wandered up to the cyber-cafe, where the bartender spoke quite accent-less English to us. Used the Internet for 30 min or so to warn friends and family of our change of plans to Seville--Jess gave us some tips. I think I almost started getting used to the funky keyboard.

     Then we met Anita, Fred, and Roxanne at the shopping center at 5pm and headed across the street to sit and have a drink.

**I didn't realize how I'd grown accustomed to no A/C anywhere until we went in a 'mall' in Pau--it was air-conditioned and it seemed odd (yet not surprising) that people were smoking inside.**

**The coke in Europe is made w/ more expensive sugar than the corn syrup we use in the states--probably the reason for the higher cost and the sweeter, less syrupy taste**

     How nice of them to buy us each a beer. Kronenburg is growing on me. We hung out for a little more while they returned to cook dinner at the apartment. We played cards and ordered another beer. PS this morning: we saw their fresh fruit and meat and veggie market. Not much broccoli, indeed!

     Dinner was delicious! Sole (fish) in a delicious creamy sauce w/lemon and salt and a wonderful Chinese rice--peas and such as well as tiny shrimps in it! So good. Bread also, of course. Then we had salad (lettuce, tomatoes, peppers), more bread and they offered cheese. At each meal, they made orange, lemon or grenadine syrup with water. Not so great tasting, but ok.

**The French clean their plates w/ bread between courses--delicious and non-wasteful! Good idea**

     After dinner, we all went by car to Nate's uncle Dennis's place, dropped our bags, and went down to walk around the church, chateau, and Vieux Pau. Very nice walk, view, and weather.

     Tons of bars and cafes as usual. At 9:30 or 10, we parted w/ the others, they went home, and we 'extended the evening' by going to a cafe just across from the lit-up beautiful sight of the castle. We ordered a litre (> 1 bottle) of wine, and drank and chatted and enjoyed the view for several hrs till 12:30 am. We toasted to Nice here. We seem to follow trends w/good views and toasts. Paris: the Sacre-Coeur and the bar, in Nice: the castle hill, and in Pau: this castle.

**Eating in France can be confusing: 'Menu' means a fixed-price 3-course option meal, 'carte' is what we call the menu, 'Entree' means appetizer, and 'Plat is the entree. 'Salade' can mean just lettuce.**

Photo Gallery for Day 9 - Pau and Train to Seville

Videos:

   1. French Guy playing the guitar on the train

     Slept in, met up with Roxanne, Anita, and Fred, and drove back to have lunch.

     Fred cooked an 'experiment' of lasagna--no meat, they are vegetarians. It had some shrimps, 'seafood' in it and other delicious things. Had more salad with tomatoes, onions, green pepper, cucumber. Delicious. Bread, cheese, coffee, and a little homemade raspberry cake/pastry. Amazing!!

     We were going to go to an arts festival but it was over. Instead, we listened to Anita and Fred's music they composed--somewhat trip-hop and very different. Good though. We headed out to another nearby town to see a church--Roman style and a gallery of art. Anita wants to use the gallery sometime for her art.

     We took a walk, Roxanne and Nate rolled down a hill, and we stopped for a coca-cola. Mmm.

     Back to Pau, and rushed off to the train station. I liked them a lot and Pau was very nice--a change from touristy towns. I was slightly more intimidated by the fact that fewer people spoke English here. When one old woman friend of Anita found out we were American, she told me to 'stop the war.' Ok..

     Roxanne was adorable and very chatty. She showed us everything in her room and kept us entertained. She wanted us to stay longer. She asked me 'France will miss you?' 'You like Pau?' 'You will miss France?' Yeah.

     At the station we said goodbyes, ate a bad 4є slice of pizza, and got on board. 6:39. At 8:30 we arrived in Irun, in Spain, a crappy looking area, and I had a donut while waiting for our 10:15 connection. Met some English-speakers who let me copy Seville hostale info out of their travel guides. More > 1 month travelers! Very nice though.

     We boarded our couchette and met another woman from New Zealand on our car. She was in her 40s I think, just quit her job and is traveling now for 3 months by herself. I am amazed. I keep thinking--I can't wait to quit and travel. She is very nice and confident about traveling alone. Her plan was after a bit in Paris, to go to southern Spain and work her way back up North through Spain, then to Cambridge to house sit for 2 weeks (placed an ad on the Internet to be a house sitter!). She didn't make much arrangements because she wanted to be totally flexible.

     7 hrs sleep on the couchette. Up at 6:30 am!

**It is true--2 weeks in Europe is 2 yrs wear on the luggage! They are getting really beat up, especially Nate's**

Photo Gallery for Day 10 - Seville

Videos:
   1. Flamenco Dancing 1
   2. Flamenco Dancing 2
   3. Gardens outside Alcazar Real palace

 **There is a reason for all the 'adventures' or mishaps maybe. The English-speaking couple said there is a lot going on in Barcelona now, and it's nearly impossible to find space in the hostales. Perhaps that's why we are going to Seville instead!**

     Thank god for the New Zealand woman. She brought our attention to our tickets where we see that in Madrid, we arrive at the North Station but our next train leaves from the South station. We had only 50 min between these times to cross the city.

     Almost took a metro and could have easily (most def would have) missed our train to Seville, but saw a sign that looked promising. Ran around and New Z. asked some ppl for help. Very hard w/ no Spanish but we went in a loop and finally got to this train that took us very quickly to the other station--I guess we were ok w/o a ticket!

     Finally at the right station, confused again, ran around a lot and just on time found our train. They actually scanned our bags here! Boarded this train. I'm glad the announcements are in both Spanish and English! Nice, very fast train. 2.5 hr Madrid-> Seville w/ one stop in Cordoba.

     Boy am I hungry. Last food = bad pizza last night at 6 and the donut at 8. It's 9:30 am. I can't stand the smoking on the trains--gets in my eyes and nose. Yuck.

     Arrived in Seville at 11 am as promised. Note to self: yay for fast trains! Bought phone cards at station and went to 'hotel and hostel' stand at the train station. Girl there asked a few brief questions, placed a call, and voila we had a room for one night, shared bathrooms, and air conditioning.

**France=push buttons (doors, bathrooms etc). Spain=push buttons, but also levers and pedals**

**AVR trains in Spain are high-speed (2.5 hr Madrid->Seville) but cost 10є over Eurail pass for a reservation!**

     She gave us directions and we walked 20 min till we arrived in a small alley. It's neat that the directions included the words 'turn right at the aqueducts'! In the alley some crazy woman seemed to be trying to take our business by leading us to her hostale, but the woman at ours grabbed us first. 33є for both for one night plus air-conditioning. Not bad, but the room sucked. Tiny, drab, shared bathroom and shower with everyone else, and poor view. Struggled up 3 flights of very steep winding stairs with baggage.

     Had lunch at a cafe--my chicken salad was poor--corn and lettuce with chicken shreds. :(.

     Headed out to do the tourist thing. Tried to talk to receptionist and ask about the info they claimed to have on sightseeing tours. No avail. No one here speaks a word of English! :( No common room, etc.

     Wandered through some gardens to a square--saw an Internet cafe and bought tickets for a hop-on, hop-off tour bus and purchased them. Found the stop nearby and hopped on. Sat on the roof and observed. Plaza de Espana, Expo 29--old buildings for diff countries represented in the 1929 world expo. Very cool. Rode through old outskirts of town and heard some history. Hopped off at expo 92. Bad idea. Siesta time and everything is closed. Never trust a tour bus map!!

     After about an hr, found our way and flagged down a bus. Hopped on and rode through other areas of Seville. Hopped off one stop early. Enjoyed a beer by the River and chilled. Beer is much cheeper in Spain. Then, the next bus would be a while so we wandered the area to see the Guadalquivir river and La Giralda--really huge gothic cathedral (from the outside) and the Alcazar Real.

**In Spain, people don't say hi or bye when you enter or leave a store :(. And I thought the French were supposed to be the rude ones!**

**The sidewalks in Seville seem to be quite wide, yay. After Paris!**

**People in Spain park on those sidewalks and on curbs, even with nice cars (that have hydraulics to get on to the curbs without damaging the undersides!**

**All drinks are cheaper in Spain than in France, by about ½ even.**

     Bought a walking audio guide for 3є for the Palace. Beautiful. Well worth it! SO much history and a beautiful place. Muslim and Christian, Aztec tiling with gilded decoration. So much detail, color, and intricate patterns. Saw the room Columbus asked for permission from the Queen to to sail the seas from. Amazing gardens and many fountains.

**Drab colored clothing in France. Bright, bold colors in Spain**

**Always have to ask for the check in France and Spain. They aren't rushing you out, but it can get annoying to track down and get the attention of a waiter at some places if you are in a hurry**

     Went looking for chocolate--located a nice cafe and went all out--cafe solo (no milk, very small amt of coffee), a chocolate ice cream sundae, and a piece of chocolate cake. Not impressed at all. Spain so far aint got nothing on the French with food! Oh well. Didn't make it to finish the bus tour, but tomorrow we can.

     Went to the hostel, showered, dressed in skirt and went out to find food and flamenco (by note in the borrowed book on the train). Ate at a tapas bar outside. Had trouble ordering--don't know Spanish! Got a 'tortilla' thing that was really a kabob, and also a bruchettita, with tomato, cheese, and chicken on it. Had a 33 cl beer and a glass of sangria mmm. Total = 7є each. Not bad!

**Streets of Seville are so trashy with litter--maybe they need a river in the gutters like in Paris!**

**Tour bus maps are NOT to scale!**

     We were late to flamenco--it started at 11. Found it on an unassuming small street near our hostel. Sooo cool. The bar was big and homey, with no fancy decorations--just benches and stuff. Felt local! Had a beer. Saw a guy and a girl dance flamenco--very passionate and good. Met 2 boys from Brussels--Belgium. The one got into a long conversation with Nate about politics, how dumb and hated Bush is, and how Europe is trying to become the new empire. Not really uplifting. Nice guys, though. They said they like Spain because it retains its culture. They think Belgium has the best chocolate. They want to win the chocolate war over Switzerland.

     Flamenco ended shortly, piano began in the next room over. Sat down and met a nice older couple from Chapel Hill, NC! Small world! Chatted a bit. They were nice. They said I'd like Raleigh. They were going to Madrid next--we'll see them there! JK.

     Left bar late and went to a shoddy bar/cafe where Nate ordered more Cruz-Crappys. Yuck. When leaving the bar, the rude owner grumbled to us what sounded very much like "go hooomee."!! Creepy.

**Local Seville beer = Cruz-Campo = Cruz-Crappo.**

**Spain: food is served w/ a basket of a little bread and then these dry cracker sticks. Also olives, often. France = fresh bread.**

**Food ordered outside at a cafe can cost more, often, than at the bar inside**

     Went back to our room at 2 am. For the 3є for the air conditioning option, the receptionist turned on our air-con unit at full blast at 10 pm until 10 am the next morning. We had no control over the unit and froze to death! This must be a way for them to torture us poor Americans who think we need air conditioning in order to sleep well. To get back into the hostel, we had to ring a buzzer and wake up an old guy to let us in. Good night!

**France would be very disappointed in Spain's breads--dry croissants, no jam or butter on it, and plastic-sealed bags of French bread!**

Photo Gallery for Day 11 - Seville and Train to Madrid

     Slept in and showered and packed and left the hostale at 11:30 am. Took a light brunch of a pastry and coffee at a cafe. Not bad, not great. I prefer croissant and jam.

     Finally found an Internet cafe open. 2є for 30 min. Checked mail and found a phone number for a seemingly good hostel in Madrid. Called and booked the next 3 nights. Phew. No more crappyhostels I hope.

     Finished the Bus Tour. Bad bus w/ broken audio guide. Did two of the same of 4 segments again. Ran into the guys from Belgium on the street. Craziness Such a small world really. Stopped for a coke from a glass bottle. Mmm... not much more time left to get those!

     Stepped in dog crap again.  :(.

**It's a good idea to get a list of hostels and their reviews before traveling--random bad hostels can put a real damper on your stay**

**Olives are very strong and served as a side order in Spain!**

     Decided to get lunch--ate at a fancy place but did a tapas special. 6.75є for 4 tapas, .75 for bread, 1.20є for water. Tapas were all mysteries and seafood and all pretty good. Esp the tuna, tomato and onion one. Can't believe I'm eating onions! Like the French, I cleaned my plate w/ my bread after that one. Delicious. Wish I knew what all the others were (Spanish rice w/ seafood? Fish fillet fried and stuffed but still raw? Some other fish in a sauce?).

     Rushed to the hostel, grabbed our bags and rushed, sweating, to the train station. Tix to Madrid = 10є in addition to the Eurail pass. Oh, those high-speed trains! Made the 4:30 train. On it now.

**The air on the Spanish fast train AVR is very very drying. Bleh**

**Does the Sangria have hard liquor in it? What kind? It's hard to tell!**

**The candies on Spain's AVR trains are the best!**

     Got water from the bar car. Still feeling dried out. Trains to Mad/Seville every hr or half hr. Wow. Well, next is Madrid (and last?)!

     Made it to our hostel, up 4 flights of stairs--oh whoops wish we'd have seen that elevator! Looks like a great location--next to 'Opera' and near Plaza del Sol and the Palace! Tons of shops nearby.

     Hostel costs 48є for 2 nights. I'm in a room w/ five boys. Hmm oh well. Rooms are clean, beds nice, tons of young people here. Los Amigos Backpackers hostel. Common room, kitchen, lounge, showers, nice. Even have clothes lines. Internet for 2є/hr.

     Chilled a little and then went for food at a local small grocery store. Cooked some crappy rice and had a yogurt mmm. Why am I eating strange foods?

     Then we went for a walk in search of a beer and a cafe. Wandered too far. Lost in sketchy area in south Madrid. Easy to get lost in these non-grid cities! Made it back to a main street and sat a t a bar/cafe for a beer. Waited and waited--no waiter in sight. Ooook. Just left. Wonder if there's a different etiquette here. It was 12:30 am or something.

**The people in Spain actually use those fans that I thought were just goofy souvenirs! I guess it would be nice to have one in the heat!**

     Bed early to get up for a busy day--for the 1^st time we are the 1^st in bed of all our roommates.

Photo Gallery for Day 12 - Madrid

Videos:
   1. Choir outside the Palace
   2. Lunch in Plaza Mayor

**Never stay at a hostel or hotel near a train station. They are all shady and bad areas**

**Look down when walking--dog crap abounds in France and Spain. So do small poles (to keep cars out of areas), which damage the knees!**

     First morning in Madrid. Buenos Dias. Breakfast and dress at 8:30 am. Awesome night's sleep. Bread w/ butter and jam for breakfast. Nice. I'm getting used to this.

     Headed out to start the day. Plan: walking tour from Nate's guide book that appears to hit the best touristy places. Problem: find out (too late) that both major museums on the tour are closed on Mondays! Cruised the walk--saw grand buildings and Plazas, fountains, etc. Neptune's fountain. Got a picture for the sistAr.

     People hand you fliers for their restaurants here. Takes some time to get used to accepting them but it is fun. Walked to the Botanical Gardens. Huge botanical display. Great setup and history. Roses, shrubs, trees, herbs..

**Near Sol at night, we saw sketchy women on the street. Prostitutes? I wondered. Well according to the guidebook, yes. They are, indeed.**

     Saw an art exhibit in the garden display building. One was videos of UK people dancing--really sweaty and funny and awkward.

Left in search of lunch. Starving! It was 12:30. Can we make it till 1 or 1:30 or 2 even? Lunch here starts at 2! Wandered streets looking for food. Being picky and looking for a menu to order. Got lost in south Madrid past Latina. Uh oh. Finally found our way back to Plaza Mayor. 2pm. Must eat. OK, this one has a menu for 9.92є. Lucky call. BEST meal ever! ½ bottle of red table wine, bread, olives. Appetizer: salad w/ like a raw or smoked tuna on top mmm! Great presentation. Nate had payella with seafood. Entree: Beef chunks (tender) in delicious cream sauce and rice. Wow! 2 scoops delicious chocolate ice cream with bittersweet chocolate shavings in it for dessert. Heaven. Only 11 bucks each including tip! I'm going to have trouble ever going back to Applebees or whatever again. Bleh. Ate for 1:45 min. Awesome.

     We had live guitar and singing for our meal--guy with a great voice doing many older soft rock solos in English. CD cost 15є. Sorry:( Would have paid 10 though. Beautiful view of Plaza Mayor.

     Left lunch and headed to the Palacio Real. 3.50є for students. I'd forgotten my student ID so I showed my UMBC wallet :) yay it worked. Palace rooms gorgeously decorated. So ornate and beautiful. Frescas abound. Nice place to visit.

     Walked through nearby gardens. Nice. Very close to our hostel! People probably drink at the palace just like Sacre Coeur and Nice's beaches.

     Turns out they do!

**Madrid = the city of real-life looking mannequins and statues. Creepy!**

     Went shopping at department store Zara. Bought white linen skirt 24є, other blue skirt 10є, and teal sweater 20є. Happy.

     Came back, showered, dressed in new skirt. Bought pasta, sauce, and artichoke hearts at the grocery store. Nate and I cooked dinner. Not bad! Kitchen very crowded--everyone eats pasta here. Had bad Spanish wine.

     Chilled and drank w/ others at the hostel. Went for some San Miguel. Chilled with Shaq (California via Egypt guy), and 2 Australian girls. Fun times talking about the 80's and stuff.

     Went to the Palace--live choir music at 11 pm! Wow. I love Europe. So good. Drank and chilled for a while before heading to a bar w/ many others. Drank muchas Sangria pitchers until 2 am. Bar closing on us. Very good times.

     Came home, used the Internet for 30 min, and went to bed at 3 am. Must be up early for our last day :(.

**Must invest in crest whitestrips when I return--wine+coffee+beer= :(**

**Is cafe solo = espresso?**

Photo Gallery for Day 13 - Madrid

Videos:
   1.  Happiest Spanish song ever in club in Madrid

     2^nd full day in Madrid, and last day in Europe:(. We set out to see museums today: 1^st to Thyssen (sp?) museum. Very large, very crowded, lots of kids and adult groups being jerks. Great museum with many famous artists and works. Great time. Spent a couple hours there, spent 3.50є.

     Then back for lunch at the same place as yesterday in Plaza Mayor. Starving at 1--stopped for a snack--mousse with chocolate sprinkles. Noticed graffiti! 'Fuck USA'

     Looked at art in Plaza Mayor. I liked one artist's work--he painted good fishes.

     Had lunch--real good again! Veggies for appetizer, wine, bread, olives again, and steak for dinner, ice cream dessert. Shaq from Los Amigos was supposed to meet us but didn't show. He was sleeping until after 2...

     After lunch I bought the blue fish painting. It was 55є but the guy didn't have change so he gave it to me for 50. Maybe not worth that much but it's cool to have a fun original art work souvenir from Madrid.

     Stopped back at our place to drop off my painting. So tired. Wanted to crash but got up and went to the Prado museum. My feet are holding up very well considering all the walking. We must have a great location in our hostel because we didn't take the metro once! But we did walk quite a ways sometimes.

     Prado = 1.50є, very cool. Saw some Goya and others. Skimmed through some repetitive things. Nate had burgers from Mac D's I had leftover left-out pizza and a plain yogurt with mixed in strawberry jam.

     Started writing and met an Australian guy going on a beer run, put in an order. Spoke w/ some other guys. One lives in chapel hill. Freaking small world (now how many times have I said that in this journal..?). Clockwork Orange guy starts rolling a joint in the common room. Funny how this is legal.

**We keep hearing from other travelers that London really sucks and is a waste of money. "It's just a big cold New York City." The pound is the most expensive money, too. Note to self: don't go there.**

     Started playing a game with tons of other hostellers. Rules were good. The trippiest thing was the rule where everyone had to speak with an accent that wasn't theirs--and they all already had accents. Mostly British, Australian, Canadian, Dutch...

     Left the hostel at 11 again and off to the Sangria bar. Didn't drink much but chatted with folks. Met a girl named Heather--from Atlanta, GA. 24. Moving to DC for/with her bf soon. She's travelling alone or w/ friends for 2 weeks, just doing Spain. First person we've met doing just 2 weeks! She works--only has so much vacation time--plans to do this every year.

     I decided to do Italy next year with her. Haha, but would be crazy if that happened. Got her email and gave her mine. Same w/ Shaq. I was getting so jealous about only doing 2 weeks when I could have kept going. Thought irrationally that maybe I could change my outbound flight cheap. Heather said I could come with her to San Sebastien!

     Went to a club/bar next. Big group of us crowded in. Beer was expensive. Nate fell in love with a Dutch girl. Danced and hung out w/ others from Los Amigos. Great times. Some Spanish, some American music. Heard a familiar song that was Roxanne's favorite (in Pau). The song was neither French nor Spanish. The group was o-zone? I can't believe I came all the way to Europe to play kill the king and dance to cotton-eyed-joe at a bar...!

     I was dancing with everyone when I noticed I felt awkward and wondered, "Why am I sweating?"  I turned around and there was some creepy old guy hanging around outside the club staring in through the window at all the girls.  I don't really like being stared at by creepy old guys, and I'd had my fair share of sangria, so I sweated him back by taking his picture and staring back at him. 

**Staying in hostels like Los Amigos would make backpacking Europe cheaper and easier--can do laundry and all there. Must look into hostels more in the future!**

**Next time--no suitcase--going to do a backpack! But stick w/ the bagging theme. That worked well. Now I know what I do and don't need**

     Getting real late, Nate, his love, and I headed back to the hostel. Got on the Internet for 30 min trying to extend my stay. New ticket home next week = only $1750. Okay, maybe I have to go home :(. Bed at 4 am.

**I think I'm going to be addicted to bread and croissants, butter and jam, wine and coke now. I have a new taste for these treats :)**

Photo Gallery for Day 14 - Madrid to Airport to Madrid

     Up at 9 am to get ready to go home:(. Shower, breakfast, pack etc.

     Long metro ride to airport. Long walk at airport, long line for Iberia. There 1:30 min early but put on standby. Must wait in another line to see if we can get seats--was overbooked. Waited very long with many others on standby--1:30 min go by again. I hear in Madrid you can check in and get your boarding pass 1 day before. That's why we got screwed. Some angry people around here! Feet and back hurting. Some people got seats.

     4 of us did not. Offered this: seat on a plane to JFK via London--arrive in JFK at 9 pm instead of our direct flight that would get in at 3.

     Decided to say no. 2 women took it--so silly. We said we had to get in in the afternoon, they'd have to let us fly tomorrow. What a good idea. Also asked for accommodation and compensation for our frustration and inconvenience. To our happiness, our frustratingly long airport experience resulted in a 'refund' of 300є for our tickets and free 4 star hotel (near airport) and a lunch, dinner and breakfast at the hotel's nice restaurant. Not bad!

**Is it just me, or do Europeans (particularly the Spanish) cut in line a lot?? No regard!**

     Took a bus to the hotel, rested a minute. Pimp-ass hotel! So nice inside. Great room, great shower, great food, pricey menu! Made it down at 3:15 for lunch. Starving! Waiters seemed pissed because lunch ends at 4. Too bad.

     Very poor lunch service. Were not offered a menu or a choice. Waited long to be served, treated somewhat rudely. Oh well, it was great food! 1 bottle red wine, bread, appetizer delicious salad with tuna, fish mmm for entree, great custard dessert and coffee. I'm gonna miss cafe solo!

     Ate for 1:30 min. Left a tip despite the poor service. Called home from the room to warn mom. Free money, food and extra night in Madrid = everyone's happy. Really tired after eating and wine. Almost didn't leave but needed to shop for souvenirs. Slept for about 30 min.

     Finally out the door. Metro ride downtown = 40 min. Went down Fuencarral rd, Gran Villa, and saw many shops but all were closing! Made it to Plaza de Espana, where I'd wanted to go anyway but hadn't had a chance. Now we've seen everything! Fountains, park here. Had an ice pop.

**French guards aren't the only ones with funny hats! Spanish guards here have plastic caps that look like pots with flipped up bills in the back. They look like toys!**

**My least favorite thing about Europe = smoking. It's out of control--people smoke constantly and everywhere without regard. A girl smoked in line at the airport, dropping ash on the ground and then smashing her cigarette into the floor. WTF agnary risiings!!**

     Walked back by Palacio Real. Went in a small consignment shop where Nate bought a real old camera for 15є. The woman spoke to me in French so we could communicate. Neat. I miss French! Went back to Los Amigos to look for left items: Nate's hat, my tshirt. Found my shirt, not the hat.

     Some of our hostel friends were there and shocked to see us. Tried to plan on meeting them later after dinner to go out, but didn't make it. It was 9:30, 40 min back to hotel. Blah metro. Ate a delicious yet not as impressive meal as lunch. It was a buffet and some things tasted funny.

     The lights kept going on and off at dinner. Odd. Had more wine, coffee.